Today in the Gardeners Journal!

Today seems like a good day to announce the beginning of the "Gardeners Journal".  It's one of those kind of days where the remnants of a late summer is hanging on with just a tad of humidity, but you can feel the coolness creeping up on you that reminds you that in fact we are truly into fall. It's the time of year that marks a significant change in seasons as well as how we treat our gardens.  We will be showing a page from a Gardeners Journal every now and then in the hopes that somewhere, somehow, we'll cross paths with other gardeners who share the passion of keeping gardening journals.  Do you keep a Gardening Journal? If so, have you reflected upon it from year to year?


Wednesday, September 29, 2010


I realized that my vegetable garden has slowed significantly and was in the state of stillness with the days shortening, the heat of summer passed and the onset of new vegetables coming to a halt. With the forecast of significant rain in the midst it was the day that I decided to clean up the garden.

Although this past summer was hot and dry, there were some vegetables that did much better than others. You would have thought that the zucchini would have done better, but alas powdery mildew won the fight and no zucchini was to be harvested this year. If it had not been for the flea beetles on the eggplants, I think I would have had a fighting chance at harvesting plenty of Black Beauties. Cucumbers were plenty, string beans were beautiful but didn't produce until much later in summer. Was it too much fertilizer?

Peppers were very small but still I was able to harvest enough for the inclusion into many nice dinners. The trial of planting over ripe potatoes was somewhat successful and worth planting a true set next year. Of course the herbs were just wonderful and always a gardeners bonus.

Tomatoes are king in my garden as there's nothing like a fresh garden tomato. I wish there was a way to keep them fresh all year long!

Before pulling out all the tomato plants I removed all the green tomatoes and prepared them to ripen by layering them in newspaper and putting them in a cool room. It's amazing how fast they ripen this way. I've also put them in paper bags with a ripen apple and within a week they're suitable for eating.

After pulling up the garden I decided to give it a thank you gift as I've been waiting for the leaf and grass clippings pile to decompose all summer and finally it was time to give back to my garden plot. When the compost heap is done cooking in a few weeks I'll add that as well, but for now the leaf compost was a gratifying addition.

In the midst of my hard work, I realized that the asparagus roots that I planted several weeks ago have taken and have actually begun sending up foliage. Wow! I was so surprised. At first I was a little nervous that this would disturb its growing cycle, but seeing the small shoots of asparagus just tells me that the sandy soil in my garden is to their liking and something tells me I'll be cutting asparagus next year.

A couple weeks ago I found a package of snap peas that I had bought for a second fall seeding and promptly planted them. To my surprise they have taken well and I am hopeful that I will still have time to harvest more peas this fall.

While doing all this manual labor or as I like to think, "labor of love" I was thinking about what I might change, continue or discontinue next year and have come up with the following:

Change

I will change the planting pattern of where my vegetables were this year by 1/4 turn as not to exhaust the nutrients in those areas.

I will not fertilize my string beans early on as I've since discovered they do not like to be over fertilized.

I will add much more organic material into my garden by starting my composting efforts much earlier.

Continue


I will definitely continue to plant the tomatoes that I've since awarded the "2010 Winners" in my garden.

I will use the troughs that I used as raised planters in my garden as they were deep and large enough to sustain larger vegetables.  As well as the bamboo structures that made for excellent mediums for the cucumbers and beans to cling on to.

I will continue to use the Fish and Seafood Emulsion fertilizer as this seemed to add the most benefit to all my vegetables.


I will definitely replant cleome around my garden as this did a beautiful job of keeping the deer away.

Discontinue

I have come to the conclusion that my garden is not suitable for growing zucchini & eggplant. Perhaps it was the weather or perhaps these are plants that are best harvested by farmers with much better soil and square footage?

In conclusion


While this was the first year I've planted a vegetable garden in an area that previously had a pool on it, realizing that the soil was a bit sandier than I would have preferred, the summer was much drier than a vegetable garden would have liked, it was a pretty good harvest to say the least. You win some years, and some years you just chalk it up to mother nature. But, in the end, you always look forward to the following year. So, as I look upon my blank slate where my vegetable garden once supplied, I now think about what's in store for next year and am anxiously awaiting the moment I can open my garden gate and create!

Now, do you have a garden story or an excerpt out of your garden journal that you'd like to share? Please let us know what successes or downfalls you've had this year in your garden!

Tree of the Week: Princeton Sentry Ginkgo Biloba

The Princeton Sentry Ginkgo Ginkgo biloba is an excellent deciduous street tree where there is limited overhead space.

A moderate growing tree reaching 50-60' by 25' wide at full maturity. This variety has a dense, fat columnar shape. Princeton Sentry is a male cultivar of the Ginkgo family which means it is 'fruitless'.



Common uses:
Street tree
Specimen tree for large or small landscapes
Median plantings

Requirements:
Full Sun
Moist, well drained soil
Tolerant of many soil conditions
Salt tolerant

Foliage:
Beautiful, unique fan shaped leaf - green during Spring & Summer
Brilliant yellow in fall

The Princeton Sentry Ginkgo is often called the Maidenhair tree. Often planted as a street tree it makes a fine landscape tree as well being disease and pest resistant as well. The unique fan shaped leaves are stunning especially in fall.

Visit our online store for more information on the Princeton Sentry Ginkgo Biloba 

Growing Garlic!

Fall is a great time to plant a culinary favorite - Garlic! Not only is it a great addition to many homemade recipes, but it is also a natural deer deterrent in gardens too! Planting garlic around the perimeter of your gardens is a great way to ward off deer once the foliage comes up next Spring through early summer when you'll be harvesting your garlic. Its is a natural Japanese beetle deterrent also! 

With so many benefits of planting garlic why not try some!

There are two main types of garlic: hardneck and softneck. Hardneck garlic have individual cloves growing around a hard central stalk, while softneck garlic have many cloves with larger ones around the outside of the head and numerous small cloves in the center.

Softneck garlic tends to keep longer once harvested than hardnecks. When choosing which cloves to plant, the bigger the clove, the bigger the head of garlic you will yield.

How to plant garlic
Garlic grows best in full sun and in loose, fertile soil. If you have heavy soil, add sand and organic matter for best results prior to planting.  Loosen the soil that you're going to plant in with a pitch fork. Since garlic is best planted in rows, you will want to prepare several shallow furrows in the soil that are 12" apart.

To plant, place a garlic clove, not the entire head, holding the clove pointed end up down into the soil approximately 2 inches deep. Plant the cloves 4 inches apart in the row. After all the cloves are in the ground, gently smooth the soil surface using your fingers to fill in the holes. Water in well.

If you have a lot of leaves, place several inches of chopped leaves over your garlic beds to help keep the bulb protected.

Just after the snow begins to melt next spring, you'll start seeing top growth in your garlic beds. Give your garlic a nice shot of 'hello spring!" using a liquid kelp and fish emulsion. Do this once in early spring and then again a month later.  Garlic isn't a water thirsty plant but, it also doesn't like to dry out either. Feel the soil an inch below the surface, if it's dry, than water. In mid-to late June, you can stop watering your garlic as the heads are starting to form cloves now.




It's harvest time!

In early summer the leaves of the garlic will produce a whip or garlic scape which will produce a garlic flower at the end. When your plant has five or six green leaves with no more than one or two beginning to turn brown it's time to harvest.  Each green leaf is a representation of the wrapper surrounding the head of the garlic underneath the soil!

Using a pitch fork, gently dig around the plant the pry them loose, and pull out. Shake off any excess soil, but do not wash it off. Keep the entire garlic and leaves intact and move to a protected, airy location, away from sun.

Cure & Clean

Curing garlic helps prepare them for storage. Hang the bare bulbs with their foliage in bundles or you can spread them out on a table. Leave the dirt that is on the outside of the bulbs on.  You can eat the garlic right away, but the taste is better after they've cured a bit.

After a few weeks, it's time to clean your bulbs. Trim the stalks to 12" above the bulb and trim the roots close to the bulb. Rub off the outer layer of the garlic bulb gently and using a toothbrush or soft nailbrush carefully remove the dried soil.  Store your bulbs in a well-ventilated, dark area.  If you have great success with your garlic growing harvest, don't forget to save the largest cloves for next years planting!

Did you know that during the course of history, garlic has been touted as a cure for everything from the common cold to the plague? Garlic has powerful antibiotic properties due to the presence of several sulfur compounds. It also contains a variety of amino acids, vitamins and minerals. Garlic is believed to assist in reducing high levels of cholesterol.

Want to try planting garlic this fall? Rutgers Nursery has softneck garlic for sale now!

Needle and Foliage Shedding on Evergreens

Just as the seasons change, so do some plants in our landscapes. The most popular change that we notice and enjoy are the leaves changing colors, but then there are the other plants that we are noticing yellowing that homeowners usually get concerned about this time of the year. These plants being evergreens.

While terminology defines evergreens as always holding their leaves or needles, it is very common for even these plants to go through a change in various seasons, autumn being one of them especially during a summer where drought conditions prevailed.

What will you notice? Yellow to brown needles in the interior of the plants. This is called "Shedding". It is a very common occurrence in:

White Pines
Hemlock
Yews
Arborvitaes
Spruces
Firs

Sometimes, the shedding happens very quickly drawing more of a concern but again, this is a very normal condition especially when the temperatures change so suddenly, for example, hot nights to cool nights, which we have experienced in the past weeks.

Why do they shed? Each year evergreen trees and shrubs will produce new foliage and then they shed their older foliage. They will typically shed from the interior of the tree, dropping their oldest needles to make way for new growth the following year.

Sometimes the needles turn yellow and then turn brown and eventually fall off.

While this is understandable and most common with evergreens what about broadleaf evergreens? Again, this is a common occurrence of older broadleaf evergreens such as:

Rhododendrons
Holly
Mountain Laurels

Typically with these plants you'll see bright yellow leaves during autumn that eventually fall to the ground. Next spring, they will begin to push out new growth.

To sum it up, if you are experiencing yellowing or browning in the interior of your needled evergreens or on broadleaf evergreens, do not be alarmed, this is a natural process during autumn and is a sign that you do have a healthy plant that is adjusting to the seasons just as we do!

The Fruits of your Labor - Part 3

How's your vegetable garden doing? Is it starting to wind down for the season? Doesn't it feel like yesterday that you were planting your tomato seedlings, waiting with anticipation as your herbs grew large enough for you to snip off your first sprig of parsley or basil?  It's days like this that you wonder, 'where did the summer go?'.  Fall is definitely here as the mornings are crisp, nights are cooler and we find ourselves not watering our vegetable gardens quite as much as we were in July and August. 

Fall does not mean the end of vegetable gardening though by any means. There's still much to be done and enjoyed! 

Plant Cool Season Vegetables

Although we've discussed this in prior posts, it's worthy of mentioning again. Planting cool weather crops now while the soil is warm but the air is cool is a great way to extend your fresh vegetable crops. What can you plant? Turnips, Kale, Mustard, Spinach, Carrots and Beets. If your soil is too warm, lettuce and spinach may germinate poorly so, over compensate by planting more. Unlike when you planted your mid Spring crops, remember that during Fall there is reduced light and cooler temperatures thus the mature dates and harvesting will not be as fast.

Got Potatoes?

If you planted potatoes this Spring, no doubt you're noticing some die back on the foliage. When all the leaves have died back you'll be ready to dig up your spuds!  Here are some tips to help you harvest:

- Dig them up on a cloudy, warm day, making sure to use a pitch fork at least one foot around the base of the plant. When you've found your potatoes, let them sit on the ground for a few hours before bringing them inside. This helps them heal from any cuts or scrapes that may have incurred while they've been dug up. 

- Don't worry about the dirt on your potatoes, this will eventually dry and fall off, you do not want to wash them as this will encourage rotting in the storage process. Store your potatoes in a cool, dark place (35-40 degrees).

I don't know about you but I have always found digging up potato crops to be so exciting! You never know how many are going to grow and you'll find beneath your soil!

Garlic Anyone?

You can start planting garlic now through the end of October so that by next July you'll have plenty to harvest. Instead of planting the regular store bought garlic which can produce 'white rot', stop down at Rutgers and pick up a 6-pack of garlic for planting!  We'll be posting a future article on "How to Plant Garlic" very soon. If you're not a regular follower of our blog, here's the perfect opportunity to "Follow Us" so you don't miss out on this blog post!

Herbs

There's nothing like the taste of fresh herbs, however, in Fall the production of them definitely slows down. Before a real cold snap comes, it's best to start thinking about harvesting all that you can now and taking them inside. Harvest the individual leaves of tarragon, rosemary, basil, etc., in the morning right after the dew has dried. This is the time when herbs are their most flavorful. Now, the decision is yours.. Do you dry or do you freeze? Some will dry herbs by tying the stems and hanging them upside down in a dry location. Then after your herbs are dried, you can store in glass jars and protect them from light and heat. The other alternative is to freeze your fresh herbs. Here's an article we posted that explains all the benefits and tips on this fast and fresh idea!

Fried Green Tomatoes

If your tomato garden was a smash this year you no doubt have some green tomatoes hanging on the vine that are taking days to ripen. Pick - Or Not To Pick - It's the waiting game that most gardeners face and then one night we get an unexpected frost and the decision has been made for you.

Once the night time temperatures start staying below 70 degrees, you will not get any new tomatoes forming on the buds, so, speed up the ripening process and pinch off any new flowers.

If a light frost is expected, cover your plants with a light sheet.

Sometimes, later in Fall, gardeners will get anxious and want to start cleaning up their garden beds but there are those green tomatoes. Ripening off the vine is easy!  Here are a couple tried and true methods:

- Place them in a sunny window. Using a fully mature tomato for this method is best and trying to sit them on the blossom side is best as they will rot less by doing this.

- Wrap individual green tomatoes in newspaper and layer them in a box. Stay at two layers. Put the box in a dark, dry place and check your ripening tomatoes weekly. This method usually takes 3-4 weeks.

- Tomatoes and Apples?  Yes! Believe it or not, if you place a green tomato in a paper bag with a ripe apple magic happens and the tomato ripens.. actually, it's the gas that an apple gives off that speeds up the ripening process.

Of course, you can always eat your green tomatoes! Here's a delicious recipe for Fried Green Tomatoes that you can try that will serve 6!

Ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
5 green tomatoes, sliced 1/2 inch thick
1 cup crushed saltine crackers
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 cup butter


Directions
1.In a small bowl, stir together the flour, salt and pepper. Place the crushed saltine crackers in another bowl, and the beaten eggs in a third bowl.

2.Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Dip each tomato slice in the egg to coat, then in the flour mixture. Dip the floured tomato slice back into the egg, and then into the cracker crumbs. Place the coated tomato slices in the hot skillet, and fry until golden brown on each side, about 3 to 5 minutes per side. Add more butter to the pan, if necessary. Serve hot!

***

While this will be the last post of this edition of "The Fruits of Your Labor", we hope you've had a successful vegetable garden this year and look forward to planning your vegetable garden next year.. Remember, when planning out your garden for next year, rotate your crops for better harvesting. So, while you're out and about this Fall, take a futuristic look at your garden and plan ahead for next years bountiful crop!

The Pleasing Montauk Daisy

Just as your perennial garden is winding down in mid Fall, there's one last surprise you'll want to add.  Enter the Montauk Daisy! Nipponanthemum nipponicum 

Let's admit it, daisies represent what's so cherished about gardening. They're cheerful, exciting yet, simple and sophisticated. Who can't resist smiling when you see a daisy?

Do you remember holding a precious daisy in your hands and recanting the saying, "She loves me, she loves me not?"  Plant a Montauk Daisy and she will love you!

What's so special you ask about the Montauk Daisy?  If you loved the look of Shasta Daises in your garden this summer and are sad to see them go, the Montauk Daisy will pick up the pace and cross the finish line until frost.

Montauk Daisy is a large, showy, easy to grow, low maintenance perennial that has bold semi-succulent foliage and will grow upwards of 3 foot!

Plant them in full sun and in well drained soil. One of the secrets of growing them is when to cut them back. Like all perennials, they will overwinter and then begin to green up in spring. Leave them be all growing season, then in mid-June, cut the plant back to the ground. At the base you'll see plenty of new buds! What you'll get in return is a beautiful blooming shrub like perennial with beautiful white with yellow centered flowers that will adorn your garden in late September to October.

Now, are you ready to pick your daisy?  Why not add them to your garden and create a "welcome to my garden" effect!  Stop by the Nursery and view our beautiful selection today!

Tree of the Week: American Holly

The American Holly 'Ilex Opaca' is a attractive evergreen holly. This holly is native to eastern United States and slowly grows to 15-30' in height by 10-20' in width.  Has a pyramidal growth habit and is fairly deer resistant.

Common Uses:
Specimen
Tall Screen
Evergreen foliage
Attractive winter interest
Berry Bearing Evergreen




Requirements:
Prefers moist, acidic soil
Once established can adapt to dry soil
Full sun to part shade
Protected area as it does not like wind
Low maintenance

Foliage, Flowers & Berry:

Attractive dark green, short spined leaves
Small white flowers in June
Beautiful small red berries mature in October and persist into winter
One male can pollinate up to three female hollies for good berry set

Noteworthy Facts:
American Holly is the state tree of Delaware. The first observation of this tree was in 1744.
It was said to be a favorite of George Washington, and dozens of Hollies planted by him are still in evidence today. It is also widely known as the hollies used for making Christmas wreaths and decorations!

Visit our online store for more information on the
American Holly!

Fall: A Perfect Time to Divide Perennials!

Not only is Fall a great time to plant but it is also a wonderful time to divide perennials. By dividing older plants we can rejuvenate the garden and spread the wealth per say.  Here are some tips on dividing perennials this Fall.

1. If it looks good, divide

Divide your Spring blooming perennials when they look good. Waiting until after they have flowered is best. Fall is a perfect time for most perennials as it is cool enough that the plants have time to set new roots.

2. Collect as many roots as possible
When digging up an existing perennial, dig it up around its drip line, the perimeter of the plant. Generally the roots of the plant will extend out that far.

3. Cut off top foliage
Cut off the top foliage to allow the plant to focus on root growth rather than foliage growth.

4. Cut the plant in half

Cut the plant in half with a sharp knife or spade. If the plant is very large, several divisions may be necessary and appropriate.

5. Dig a hole and plant

Dig a hole as wide as the roots spread out, put in some good compost or organic material then your divided perennial and back fill with more compost and soil.  Adding compost gives your newly planted perennial a jump start in root production. Pat down the soil and water in well.

Click here to watch a video on the division of an astilbe. Next year we will check back with this same plant and watch its successful division as one plant became two!

Stink Bugs on the Rise!

The brown marmorated Halyomorpha halys, a.k.a "Stink Bug" is on the rise once again this year and with a vengeance it seems.

Where did they come from?

Originally from Japan, Korea and China, Stink Bugs made their way into Allentown, Pennsylvania in 2001 increasing in population here in NJ and PA ever since.

The term “stink bug” was coined by the unpleasant odor they emit when protecting themselves against harm. When a stink bug is threatened or even killed, it will emit a foul odor that is distinct and hard to describe. Some say it is a sour, pungent smell while others compare it to a skunk. However you describe the smell, it's not pleasant!

Stink bugs measure about 3/4 of an inch long. Their body resembles a triangular shield and is brown or gray in color. They have six legs and antennae. Adult stink bugs have four wings that allow them to fly.

What do they eat?

Fruit crops

Corn & Soybean

Vegetable crops concentrating on green beans, asparagus and peppers

Various tree such as crabapple, maples, sweet gums, redbuds and American hollies.

Ornamental shrubs such as butterfly bush, serviceberry, pyracantha, viburnum, roses & honeysuckle

Various annuals such as cleome and marigolds

Why so many this year?

In recent weeks, Rutgers Nursery has already taken calls from homeowners worried about Stink Bugs as they've been seen covering Maple trees, Mimosa trees, summer annuals and vegetable crops.  Researchers have determined that the recent long hot summer is the reason for such a rise in Stink Bugs. We notice them more in August and September because they feed and then look for cozy places to spend the winter.

How do you get rid of them?

Unfortunately, there is no insecticide that has proven itself 100% in treating these pests. Thus, the best method of defense is to prevent them from entering your home now.  Here are some useful tips to help you protect your home this season from nesting stink bugs.

Check your home for any holes or cracks especially in:
Windows, Screens & Doors
Caulk your windows
Cracks around chimneys
Holes where utility wires enter your home
Check attics, basements and garages

Check any plants you are bringing inside for the rest of the year, paying close attention to the underside of leaves making sure there are no eggs waiting to hatch once they feel the warmth of your home.

If you enjoy hanging your laundry on a clothesline to dry in the sun, before you bring them in, give them a good shake as stink bugs love to hide in the folds of fabric.


What do you do if you find one inside?

Scoop it up into a paper cup and let it go outside being careful not to squish it. If you see a large area of them, vacuum them up and dispose of the bag outside.  Certainly the last thing you want to do is smack a stink bug as it will release its foul smell. Have you thought about flushing them down the sink? Don't bother, they are resilient to that method and will release their odor from being threatened in such a manner.

Fortunately, these smelly insects do not bite humans and are not harmful to pets, but as of this date, there is no predator that feeds on them either. Until scientists produce a sure fire way of eradicating stink bugs, our best defense is protection from them entering our homes.

Remember you are not alone in this disdain for stink bugs as there are over 32,000 people in the "I Hate Stink Bugs " Facebook Fan Page!

Click here to join!

September Landscape Tips

September is a great month to get back in the garden after a hot summer. What should you be doing during the month of September?




•Water during dry spells


•Plant roses, trees, shrubs and perennials- water heavily once a week

•Mow lawn frequently, fertilize, plant grass seed until soil cools

•De-thatch and aerate lawn

•Cut back spent perennials

•Divide perennials and peonies

•Plant spring flowering bulbs such as daffodils, tulips, crocus, hyacinths, allium

•Uproot annuals, throw them into compost pile

•This is the best time of year to seed new lawns, warm days and cool nights facilitate rapid weed free turf establishment

Lesson on Leaves

Last week we posted a well read article "Leafing it Up to You" and many inquired what are those beautiful leaves?

With so many leaves to look at we picked a few trees that have the most interesting foliage. While these trees have beautiful leaves, they have lots of other qualities as well. Here are the answers to the leaves we chose for providing interest in your landscape.

Interested in finding out more?

Rutgers Nursery has a fine selection of all these beautiful trees and of course their leaves!  Enjoy!

Bloodgood Maple

Acer palmatum

A top choice among small trees. New foliage emerges red with beautiful red color too! Matures at a height of 15-20 feet. Has a beautiful branching habit. Thrives in partial shade and moist soil.


Shademaster Honey Locust
Gleditsia triacanthos

A beautiful fast growing deciduous shade tree.  Its leaves are glossy and dark green (yellow in fall)  An excellent street and lawn tree that does well in extreme heat and cold. Mature height can reach 40'.

D.D. Blanchard Southern Magnolia
Magnolia grandiflora
A magnificent evergreen tree with green glossy leaves and leathery looking undersides. Huge fragrant, cup shaped flowers. Has beautiful branching and can reach heights of 50'. Fast grower that requires full sun.

Chinese Dogwood
Cornus Kousa
A beautiful flowering tree that grows 15 to 20' tall and has exfoliating bark, long lasting flowers, good fall color and attractive fruit. What more could a person ask for in one tree!







Gingko
Gingko Biloba
One of the oldest trees in the world, this tree can reach 50'-80' in height, with a spread of 30'-40'. Their leaves are a fantastic fan shaped specimen that start out green and become a bright gold in fall.  Prefers a well-drained soil, and planted in full sun to partial shade. A beautiful shade tree or specimen tree!


Eastern Red Bud
Cercis Canadensis
It is a small deciduous tree that displays an abundance of purple blossoms in the spring. It has large heart shaped leaves during the summer, and long seedpods in the fall. Red Bud trees have a yellow fall color. Perfect as a specimen or in groupings. Plant them in a well drained soil in sun to part sun environments for a showy display in early spring. Grows 20-30' tall.

Dawn Redwood
Metasequoia glyptostroboides
One of only a few deciduous conifers. It is a large, fast growing tree that makes an excellent shade or street tree if the lot is large enough. This tree can grow 75-100' or taller and 15-25' wide, with a pyramidal shape. Has a beautiful soft green leaf which is often confused for a Bald Cypress. In fall, this living fossil tree turns yellow-orange before losing its leaves in late fall.


Golden Rain Tree
Koelreuteria paniculata

A fast-growing, deciduous tree reaching about 30' in height.  The lacy leaves turn yellow before falling. A striking tree in the fall with its large clusters of showy yellow flowers which are followed by 2" red-purple seed pods, which are equally dramatic! Plant in full sun for the best flowers!





Seedless Sweetgum

Liquidambar styraciflua Rotundiloba

Polished green round shaped leaves are just one of the unique qualities of this deciduous shade tree. Leaves turn yellow-purple-red in the fall, and stay on the tree quite late.  Grows 60'-70', with a 45' spread.


October Glory Maple

Acer rubrum

A fast growing tree that requires minimal attention and will quickly mature to an oval shaped tree reaching 40-50' tall. Beautiful showy red leaves that drop later in fall. Does well in well-drained soil and planted in full to partial sun.
   


Tulip Tree

Liriodendron tulipifera

A beautiful deciduous shade tree that has large, tulip-shaped leaves that turn yellow in the fall. Pale yellow, tulip-shaped flowers are produced in spring. A large tree that matures to 70+ feet. Prefers partial shade to full sun. Use as a shade, street or specimen tree.

Swamp White Oak
Quercus bicolor

A rugged, long lived oak tree that grows well in swampy areas. It is tolerant of poorly drained sites and frequently is found in heavy mucky soils. The Swamp White Oak is a rapidly growing tree that flowers in spring. The word bicolor refers to the two-colored leaf, shiney green above and velvety white below, turning golden in the fall. This deciduous tree grows best in full sun and will mature to 50-60' tall.

Do you have any of these beautiful trees in your landscape?